Germany Art Deco Sautoir Necklace with’WMF Ikora Glass’ Bead Accents

This Art Deco era sautoir necklace from Germany may be one of the most exquisite ones I’ve seen. This extra-long necklace showcases clear glass beads topped off by unique ribbed swirl beads with hints of color in them, in the style of “Ikora glass” made by the WMF (Württembergische Metallwarenfabrik) company in Stuttgart, during the era of famous glass designer Karl Wiedmann (late 1920s-1930s). See our last picture for an example of an Ikora glass piece. The necklace also features faceted glass beads, as well as discs, and rhinestone rondelles. At 57 long, it is stunning worn long, flapper style, or layered. It’s long enough to be wound twice, three times or, for even four times aound the neck. We researched about Ikora glass after we got this necklace, because the small and round accent beads here are so unusual in shape and hue. Wiedmann pioneered and perfected in WMF the technique of making iridescent glassware, known as “MYRA”. During the glass making process, silver nitrate plus iridescent metal salts are added, creating vases and other products that have a translucent bluish green, golden luster, and a matte finish. One time, when WMF tried to repair a damaged Myra piece with clear glass, it accidentally discovered Ikora glass. The technique for making Ikora glass involves encasing clear glass with different coloring agents. WMF produced an array of colorful Ikora glass through constant experimentation with colors and surface techniques. Each Ikora glass piece was unique in coloration (see our last picture for examples of Wiedmann’s Ikora vases). Aside from glassware, Ikora glass was also used for making jewelry, according to the “Glass Museum” website. “Pieces of Ikora glass (were) cut and mounted in brass or silver mounting, ” it says. “Every swirl, colour band or iridized bubble would be caught in the light between the crystal layers, ” it adds. This description fits to a “T” what our necklace’s Ikora-style globules look like. Our necklace has two sizes of these Ikora beads, large 1/2″ and smaller 3/8″ rounds, as accents along its entire length. Each bead has a ribbed swirl running along the center of the bead (like a band on the planet Saturn, for instance). The swirl is has a golden yellow tint against a backdrop of mostly clear round. Hints of this golden hue seem to permeate across the rest of the bead in varying degrees, some have more, some have less, some none. This color spread may be just an optical illusion, as the hints of color within seem to change with how much light hits the glass. The large Ikora beads are flanked by rhinestone rondelles and clear glass discs. The smaller Ikora beads are part of smaller bead segments that also include faceted glass beads. All the beads are threaded through and joined together by brass wire loops. The widest portions of the 57″ long necklace are across the large Ikora glass beads, about 1/2″. Our necklace has a large spring ring clasp that is stamped Germany. It is silver in color, and may actually be sterling. In very good to excellent condition. The silver clasp is bright and shiny, and the brass loops have a deep golden hue, with no visible verdigris. The Ikora glass beads have fantastic hues, and fine, meticulous craftsmanship. In overall wonderful condition (we noticed two small beads with minor chips). The faceted clear crystals are also in great condition.

Tags:'wmf, accents, bead, deco, germany, glass, ikora, necklace, sautoir